Модный Лондон. Одежда и современный мегаполис

В число важных публикаций о городской культуре входят: Auge M. Non-places: Introduction to an Anthropology of Supermodernity. Verso, London, 1995; Benjamin W. The Arcades Project. Belknap, Cambridge, MA, 1999; Benjamin W. Charles Baudelaire: A Lyric Poet in the Era of High Capitalism. Verso, London, 1983; Berman M. All That is Solid Melts Into Air. N.Y.: Simon & Schuster, 1982; Borden I., Kerr J., Pivaro A., Rendell J. (eds). Strangely Familiar: Narratives of Architecture in the City. Routledge, London, 1996; Burgin V. Some Cities. London: Reaktion, 1996; Certeau M. de. The Practice of Everyday Life. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1998; Davis M. City of Quartz. Verso, London, 1991; Finnegan R. Tales of the City: A Study of Narrative and Urban Life. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997; Frisby D., Featherstone M. (eds). Simmel on Culture. London: Sage, 1997; Harvey D. Consciousness and the Urban Experience. Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 1985; Harvey D. The Condition of Postmodernity. Oxford: Blackwell, 1989; Hayden D. The Power of Place. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 1995; Lefebvre H. Writings on Cities. Oxford: Blackwell, 1996; Massey D. Space, Place and Gender. Cambridge: Polity, 1994; Miles M., Hall T., Borden I. (eds). The City Cultures Reader. London: Routledge, 2000; Olsen D. The City as a Work of Art. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1986; Pile S. The Body and the City. London: Routledge, 1996; Raban J. Soft City. London: Harvill, 1998; Rifkin A. Street Noises: Parisian Pleasure 1900–1940. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1993; Rybczynski W. City Life. N.Y.: Scribner, 1995; Sennett R. Flesh and Stone. London: Faber & Faber, 1994; Sharpe W., Wallock L. (eds). Visions of the Modern City. Baltimore: John Hopkins University Press, 1987; Thrift N. Spatial Formations. London: Sage, 1996; Watson S., Gibson K. (eds). Postmodern Cities and Spaces. Oxford: Blackwell, 1995; Wolfreys J. Writing London: The Trace of the Urban Text from Blake to Dickens. London: Macmillan, 1998; Zukin S. The Culture of Cities. Oxford: Blackwell, 1996.

Важные исключения составляют: Breward C. The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life 1860–1914. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999; Breward C. Fashion. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2003; Bruzzi S., Church Gibson P. (eds). Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations and Analysis. London: Routledge, 2000; Green N. Ready to Wear, Ready to Work: A Century of Industry and Immigrants in Paris and New York. Duke University Press, NC, 1997; Mort F. Cultures of Consumption: Masculinities and Social Space in Late Twentieth-century Britain. London: Routledge, 1996; Nead L. Victorian Babylon: People, Streets and Images in Nineteenth-century London. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2000; Ogborn M. Spaces of Modernity: London’s Geographies 1680–1780. N.Y.: Guilford Press, 1998; Perrot P. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994; Rappaport E. Shopping for Pleasure: Women in the Making of London’s West End. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 2000; Roche D. The Culture of Clothing. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994; Steele V. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford: Berg, 1998; Wilson E. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. London: Virago, 1985; Wilson E. The Sphinx in the City: Urban Life, the Control of Disorder, and Women. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1991.

Wolfreys. Writing London. P. 7.

См.: Entwistle J. The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory. Cambridge: Polity, 2000; Entwistle J., Wilson E. (eds). Body Dressing. Oxford: Berg, 2001.

Thrift. Spatial Formations. P. 7.

Де Серто М. Призраки в городе // Неприкосновенный запас. 2010. № 2 (70).

Sennett. Flesh and Stone.

Steele. Paris Fashion; Wilson. The Sphinx in the City; and Wigley M. White Walls, Designer Dresses. Boston: MIT Press, 1995.

Gilbert D. Urban Outfitting: The City and the Spaces of Fashion Culture // Bruzzi and Church Gibson (eds). Fashion Cultures. Pp. 7–24.

Gilbert. Urban Outfitting. P. 20.

Обсуждение методов, касающихся одежды как источника исторических данных, см. в: Tarrant N. The Development of Costume. London: Routledge, 1994; Taylor L. The Study of Dress History. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002; Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 1998. Vol. 2.4.

См.: Shesgreen S. (ed.). The Cries and Hawkers of London: The Engravings of Marcellus Laroon. Aldershot, 1990; Mayhew H. London Labour and the London Poor. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1985; Dickens C. Sketches by Boz. Harmondsworth: Penguin, 1995.

Поскольку этот проект делает упор на «биографичность», он вдохновляется традицией исторических, творческих и социологических описаний Лондона, которые нацелены на определение меняющегося характера британской столицы посредством анализа жизни и привычек его населения, а также его физического, психологического и материального окружения. Самые яркие примеры таких работ включают в себя: Madox Ford F. The Soul of London. London: J.M. Dent, 1995 (1905); Cohen-Portheim P. The Spirit of London. London: Batsford, 1935; Rasmussen S.E. London, the Unique City. London: Jonathan Cape, 1937; Mitchell R.J., Leys M.D. A History of London Life. London: Longmans, 1958; Humphries S., Weightman G. The Making of Modern London 1815–1914. London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1983; Humphries S., Taylor J. The Making of Modern London 1945–1985. London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1986; Moorcock M. Mother London. London: Secker & Warburg, 1988; Wright P. A Journey Through Ruins: The Last Days of London. London: Radius, 1991; Porter R. London: A Social History. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1994; Sinclair I. Lights Out For the Territory. London: Granta, 1997; Inwood S. A History of London. London, 1998; Jack I. (ed.). London: The Lives of the City (Granta 65). London: Granta, 1999; Ackroyd P. London: The Biography. London: Chatto & Windus, 2000; White J. London in the Twentieth Century: A City and its People. Harmondsworth: Viking, 2001.

Обсуждение материальной культуры как инструмента мемориализации см.: Kwint M., Breward C., Aynsley J. (eds). Material Memories: Design & Evocation. Oxford: Berg, 1999.

Sola-Morales I. De in: Whiting S. (ed.). Differences. Boston: MIT Press, 1997. Цит. по: Wolfreys. Writing London. P. 203.

Bliss T. Jane Welsh Carlyle: A New Selection of her Letters. London: Victor Gollancz, 1949. P. 159.

Connely W. Count D’Orsay: The Dandy of Dandies. London: Cassell & Co., 1952. P. 162.

Браммел Джордж Брайан (1778–1840) – английский денди, законодатель моды. (Прим. пер.)

Lamington A. In the Days of the Dandies. London: Eversleigh Nash, 1906. Pp. 26–27.

1811–1820 гг. (Прим. ред.)

Museum of London Accession Number A.9243-4.

Ribeiro A. The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750–1820. New Haven, 1998. P. 99.

Museum of London Accession Number 87.194.

Cpt. Jesse. The Life of George Brummell Esq. Vol. I. London: John Nimmo, 1886. Pp. 62–63.

Museum of London Accession Number 56.69.

Копия письма (SR/RBC.7) хранится в Музее Лондона.

Ribeiro. Art of Dress. Pp. 104–105.

Porter R. London: A Social History. London: Hamish Hamilton, 1994. P. 180.

Название Токио до 1869 г. (Прим. пер.)

Ibid. P. 184.

См.: McNeil P. Macaroni Masculinities // Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 2000. Vol. 4.4. Pp. 373–405.

Gronow R. Reminiscences of Captain Gronow. London: Smith, Elder & Co., 1862. P. 59.

Boutet de Monvel R. Beau Brummell and Times. London: Everleigh Nash, 1908. P. 56.

Район Сент-Джеймса получил название «Клубландия» благодаря большому средоточию клубов для джентльменов. (Прим. ред.)

Gronow. Reminiscences. P. 62.

De Monvel. Beau Brummell. P. 70.

Jesse. George Brummell. P. 63.

Thorold P. The London Rich: The Creation of a Great City from 1666 to the Present. London: Viking, 1999. P. 239.

Vermont M. de, Darnley C. London and Paris or Comparative Sketches. London: Longman, 1823. Pp. 31–32.

Summerson J. Georgian London. London: Pelican, 1962. Pp. 18–22. См. также: McKellar E. The Birth of Modern London: The Development and Design of the City 1660–1720. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999.

Summerson. Georgian. London. Pp. 24–25.

Речь идет об одной из старейших шляпных мастерских в Британии, James Lock & Co., основанной в 1676 г. (Прим. пер.)

Rendell J. Industrious Females and Professional Beauties: Or Fine Articles for Sale in the Burlington Arcade // I. Borden, J. Kerr, A. Piraro and J. Rendell (eds). Strangely Familiar: Narratives of Architecture in the City. London: Routledge, 1996. P. 36. О развитии этих идей см. также: Rendell J. The Pursuit of Pleasure: Gender, Space and Architecture in Regency London. London: Athlone Press, 2002.

Walden G. Who’s a Dandy? London: Gibson Square Books, 2002.

Vermont. London & Paris. Pp. 20–21.

Wheatley H. Bond Street Old and New 1686–1911. London: Fine Art Society, 1911. P. 29.

Dear Street – так называет Бонд-стрит лорд Литтон в стихотворении «Сиамские близнецы» (Lord Lytton. Siamese Twins. 1831. P. 160). (Прим. пер.)

Dear Street. Country Life. 1 May 1937.